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Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Jasper White

Jasper White

 

If you are looking for good seafood, chef Jasper White's cooking is the stuff to try. His Summer Shacks are big, loud eateries to sit back and relax in with family and friends.

 

 

Chef Jasper White
Specialty: Seafood

Jasper White’s Summer Shack seafood restaurants are living proof of his philosophy: Quality food does not have to be elegant; in fact, it can be downright messy. These loud, bustling clam shacks seat hundreds of people, a stark contrast to White’s previous sophisticated, formal establishment, Jasper’s Restaurant.

White was born in New Jersey in 1954, where he spent a great deal of time on the Jersey Shore. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, White spent several years working in different restaurants throughout the United States before settling in Boston. While there, he met chef Lydia Shire, and the two worked together in some of the best Boston hotel kitchens such as the Copley Plaza and the Parker House. The two formed a strong working relationship, and can be credited with bringing outstanding contemporary cuisine to Boston. White’s research of New England foods and cooking experience has made him a trusted expert on New England fare, especially seafood.

After a decade-long run, White and his wife, Nancy, closed Jasper’s and wrote cookbooks including Lobster at Home and Fifty Chowders. It was a shocker when the sophisticated chef opened a casual eatery, Jasper White’s Summer Shack in Cambridge, MA. The result was a huge success, and Jasper opened two other Summer Shacks in Connecticut and in Boston’s Back Bay. Most recently, White has shared some of his more casual recipes in The Summer Shack Cookbook — the Complete Guide to Shore Food.

White’s accolades include the 2001 James Beard Award Nomination for Best New Restaurant for his Summer Shack, and the 2003 Top R&D Chefs from Nation’s Restaurant News.

Recipes
Traditional Fish Stock
Scallop Chowder with Cabbage and Bacon
Lineage Lobster Stock
Lineage Lobster Chowder


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Jasper White's Traditional Fish Stock

For fish and seafood lovers, chef Jasper White's fish stock will become a kitchen staple.



Photo Credit Illustration by Michael Toland
Recipe courtesy of chef Jasper White.
SERVINGS
Makes about 2 quarts.

INGREDIENTS
4 pounds fish frames (bones) from sole, flounder, halibut, and/or turbot, cut into 2-inch pieces and rinsed clean of any blood
1/2 cup dry white wine
About 2 quarts water
2 medium onions, very thinly sliced
4 stalks celery, very thinly sliced
2 medium carrots, very thinly sliced
2 dried bay leaves
1/4 cup roughly chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves and stems
6 to 8 sprigs fresh thyme
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
Kosher or sea salt

PREPARATION
1. In a 7- or 8-quart stockpot, combine fish bones, white wine, and just enough water to cover (you won’t need the full 2 quarts of water here). Bring to a boil, skimming off white foam from top of stock as it approaches boiling, then reduce heat so stock simmers. (Using a ladle and a circular motion, push foam from center to outside of pot, where it is easy to remove.)
2. Add onions, celery, carrots, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and peppercorns and stir into liquid. If ingredients are not covered by the liquid, add a little more water. Allow stock to simmer gently for 20 minutes.
3. Remove stock from stove, stir again, and allow to steep for 10 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and season lightly with salt. If you are not going to be using the stock within the hour, chill it as quickly as possible. Cover stock after it has completely cooled and keep refrigerated for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 2 months.

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Jasper White's Scallop Chowder with Cabbage and Bacon

This rich and creamy seafood chowder from chef Jasper White is so good you'll be scraping the bowl for the last drops.

 

Photo Credit Illustration by Michael Toland
Recipe courtesy of chef Jasper White.
SERVINGS
6 to 8 as main course.
INGREDIENTS
For Chowder:
4 ounces slab (unsliced) bacon, rind removed and cut into 1/3-inch dice 
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large onion (10-12 ounces) cut into 3/4-inch dice
2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed and chopped (1 teaspoon)
1 dried bay leaf 
1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold, Main, or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch dice
5 cups Traditional Fish Stock, or chicken stock, or either in combination with water to total 5 cups
8 ounces Savoy cabbage (1/2 small head, or 1/4 large head), cut into 3/4-inch pieces
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 pounds medium bay scallops, strap removed, or large sea scallops cut into 3/4-inch pieces and strap removed
1 1/2 cups heavy cream (or up to 2 cups if desired)
For garnish:
2-3 scallions, very thinly sliced

PREPARATION
1. Heat a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot over low heat and add bacon. Once it has rendered a few tablespoons of fat, increase heat to medium and cook until bacon is a crisp brown.
2. Add butter, onions, thyme, and bay leaf and sauté, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for about 8 minutes, until onions are softened, but not browned.
3. Add potatoes and fish stock. The stock should just barely cover the potatoes. If it doesn’t, add enough water to cover them. Turn up heat and bring to a boil, cover pot, and cook potatoes vigorously for about 8 minutes.
4. Add diced cabbage, reduce heat to medium, and simmer for 5 minutes more, or until potatoes are soft on outside, but still firm in center. Season with salt and pepper. If broth hasn’t thickened lightly, smash a few potatoes against side of pot and simmer 1 to 2 minutes longer to release their starch. Remove pot from heat.
5. Stir in scallops and let sit for 5 minutes. Add cream and let sit for 10 minutes more, while scallops finish their slow cooking. Taste chowder again and adjust salt and pepper. If you are not serving chowder within the hour, let it cool a bit, then refrigerate; cover chowder after it has chilled completely. Otherwise, let it sit at room temperature for up to an hour, allowing the flavors to meld.
When ready to serve, reheat chowder over low heat; don’t boil. Use a slotted spoon to mound scallops, potatoes, cabbage, and bacon in center of large soup plates or shallow bowls, dividing them evenly, then ladle creamy broth around. Sprinkle generously with sliced scallions.
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Chef Jasper White's Lineage Lobster Stock

This lobster stock from chef Jasper White is the real deal, perfect for use in chowder.

Photo Credit Illustration by Michael Toland
Recipe courtesy of chef Jasper White.
SERVINGS
Makes 1 gallon.

INGREDIENTS
15 lobster bodies
1 cup fennel, 1-inch dice
2 cups onion, 1-inch dice
1 cup celery, 1-inch dice
1 cup carrot, 1-inch dice
1 bottle white wine
6 sprigs thyme
1 head garlic
3 cups chopped tomatoes (canned is okay if fresh are not available) 
6 peppercorns
2 bay leaves
5 quarts cold water
1/2 cup canola or grapeseed oil
1 cup tomato paste

PREPARATION
1. Split lobster bodies and remove innards. All dark green roe (and any meat) should be saved for an alternate use. Rinse shells under cold water and cut into smaller pieces with a cleaver.
2. In a large saucepan, heat oil until lightly smoking. Add lobster shells and stir frequently, letting them cook 4 to 5 minutes (do not burn). Add vegetables and continue to cook 6 to 8 minutes or until vegetables begin to caramelize.
3. Stir in tomatoes and white wine. Bring to a quick boil and add remaining ingredients.
4. Bring back to a light boil and skim well. Reduce to a simmer and cook 2 1/2 hours.
5. Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve, making sure to press out extra moisture from shells. Chill stock completely and store in refrigerator 2 to 3 days.
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