Ethan Stowell

Rising star Ethan Stowell has the chef’s version of the Midas touch — everything he touches turns to culinary gold.

 

By Jennifer Treuting

Chef Ethan Stowell

Specialty: New American and Italian cuisine

It could be said that Ethan Stowell’s secret to success is mineral water. The self-taught German-born chef shared the tip with readers of Seattle Dining, saying that he uses it in place of chicken stock almost every time he’s working with vegetables. In fact, the kitchens of Union, his flagship restaurant, go through five cases of it a week.

This type of fanatic attention and quest for perfection is what sets Chef Stowell apart from the crowd. Before setting off on his own, Stowell cut his teeth at Seattle-area restaurants like the Painted Table, Lampreia, and Nell’s.

Union, Stowell’s first restaurant, opened in Seattle in 2003. Proving his mettle as a chef, he created a menu that changes daily, inspired by local and seasonal ingredients. A darling of diners and critics alike, Union has made best restaurant lists across the country, garnering attention from Gourmet, Esquire, and Food & Wine. Seattle Homes & Lifestyle declared Union the “best gourmet deal in town, no matter which fantasy dish you try.”

Tavolata opened in 2006, and for the second time, Stowell caught lightning in a bottle. The restaurant, an Italian affair, was quickly named one of Bon Appétit’s 10 Hottest New Restaurants in America. Confirming the buzz, the Seattle Times gave Stowell’s sequel to Union a three-star review. With a large communal table, sharing is encouraged: There are plenty of small plates, and pasta is served family-style.

Not one to sit on his laurels, Stowell opened up his third venture, How to Cook a Wolf, in late 2007. Seattle Magazine quickly named it one of the city’s Best New Restaurants. Named for the M.F.K. Fisher book, How to Cook a Wolf features a menu and atmosphere similar to Tavolata, but is more straightforward in its approach to Italian-influenced cuisine. Like the two that came before it, Stowell’s latest hit restaurant also earned a three-star review from the Seattle Times.

The future is bright for this Seattle-based chef. 2008 was a year full of national recognition: First came a nomination for the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef: Northwest award, followed by attention from Food & Wine — Stowell was among the magazine’s list of 2008’s Best New Chefs.

Fun fact: Ethan Stowell is an avid reader and has a library of more than 1,000 cookbooks.